In the heart of Hackney, London, a new culinary adventure awaits, and it's a tale of clowns, cuisine, and the ever-evolving hospitality scene. Auguste, a restaurant named after a clown, is a fascinating addition to the neighborhood, and its story is one of both promise and peculiarity.
A Clown's Tale
Auguste's inspiration is intriguing. Named after a clown, with a nod to Edward Hopper's painting 'Soir Bleu,' the restaurant seems to wear a mask of its own, presenting a calm facade while perhaps hiding a deeper story. This metaphor, of the sad clown in a hipster cafe, is a powerful one, especially when considering the challenges faced by those in the hospitality industry. It's a reminder that beneath the glitter and smiles, there's often a complex narrative.
The Transformation
The space that now houses Auguste was previously occupied by Papi, a popular spot known for its European influences and cool vibe. The transformation is subtle yet significant. While the new owners, chef Mike Bagnall and general manager Dylan Walters, have retained the hip and irreverent atmosphere, they've added a touch of Abruzzo, an Italian region known for its rustic charm. The result? A familiar yet refreshed experience, a concept that's both intriguing and risky.
The Menu: A Journey Through Abruzzo
Auguste's menu is a journey through the heart of Abruzzo. The star attraction is the arrosticini, tiny kebabs grilled over a furnacella, a live-fire cooking method that's currently all the rage. The variety of meats and dipping sauces offer a unique twist on this traditional dish. However, it's the other dishes that showcase the region's flavors, from the stracciatella with tomatoes to the wild boar-stuffed morels. Each plate tells a story, but as with any collection of small plates, the overall narrative can be disjointed.
A Critical Eye
The potato rösti, while delicious, lacked the crispness needed to support the blue cheese cream. The puttanesca salsa, a bold choice for cured sea bream, was perhaps too assertive for the delicate fish. And while the cappelletti in broth was authentic, the saltiness could have been toned down. The asparagus with peas and wild garlic cream was a highlight, as was the chicken saltimbocca, a rich and satisfying dish.
Dessert: A Mixed Bag
The dessert options were limited, with a vanilla semifreddo and a mascarpone tart. While both were rustic and edible, they lacked the finesse and balance one might expect from a restaurant aiming for greatness. It's a reminder that dessert can make or break a meal, and in this case, it left a slightly sour note.
Final Thoughts
Auguste shows potential, with moments of culinary brilliance. However, the overall experience is inconsistent, veering between excellence and mediocrity. It's a restaurant that needs to find its footing, to refine its concept and deliver a more cohesive dining experience. With a loyal fan base, Auguste has a solid foundation, but it must continue to evolve and surprise to truly stand out in London's competitive culinary scene. Personally, I think it's a restaurant worth keeping an eye on, as it has the potential to become a true destination for food lovers.
